Journeys to the East – Awash to Harar

Travelling east, through Debre Zeit, a good road takes you to the Awash National Park, situated in the lowlands east of Addis Ababa. Camping by the river, the Awash is excellent for viewing game. Hippopotamuses and crocodiles can be seen in the river.

You will continue east, touring various towns, through the scenery of craters and dry gorges, to Dire Dawa. The road from Dire Dawa arrives at Harar, the famous walled Muslim city. This colourful city, with its many mosques is known for producing the best coffee and chat (a mild narcotic leaf) in the country. With a fascinating history, this city is a unique window on the past.

The minimum time, including a stay at Awash National Park is 5 days. For a longer tour it could easily be combined with a visit to the Rift Valley Lakes.

Awash National Park

Awash river

This dry, acacia savannah reserve, low lying and arid, is noted for its desert landscape. It is inhabited by the Afar, a nomadic people who are famous for trading camels and salt, which they gather in the harsh-below-sea-level craters of the desert. The Afar people are a beautiful, elegant, tall race, known to be fiercely protective and who live in very small groups.

The park’s notable features are the Awash river, which has carved a 150 metre deep gorge into which the river falls, creating a substantial waterfall. Dormant volcanoes can be seen all around with the bleak lava flows from Mount Fantelle. Steam vents can be seen displaying from the surrounding plains at night-time.

The Filwoha Hot Springs feed a series of clear, blue pools and are situated in a grove of tall doum plants and are captivating. Lions are likely to be seen at the springs, and if not seen, their night time roars can be heard at the campsite.

On the banks of the Awash River

This is a first rate birding location, many endemic species of birds, including water birds can be seen here.

Although walking in the park is very limited, there are several walks and treks that take you around Lake Beseka and around the Awash gorge.

Dire Dawa

Juice - Sign in cafe

The rural Oromo and Afar people in traditional dress attend the large market. It is worth visiting in the morning, when it is at its busiest. The railway station building is a good example of colonial architecture. The Ras Hotel is a good place to retire after sightseeing; set in green grounds it boasts a welcoming swimming pool and the usual coffee and juice, as well as Ethiopian style meals.

Other than the above and unless catching a flight or waiting for the train, it is not deemed as an essential town to visit.

Harar

Harar

Harar is a legendary walled city historically documented, and steeped in religious history, having been the centre of a significant number of religious conflicts. You can enter Old Harar the walled city with numerous mosques (over 90), by its various gates, each with their own name.

Harar is also known for its high quality coffee, once the main agricultural crop but more recently taken over by the growing of khat, (local name Chat) a mildly narcotic leaf that is chewed compulsively and thus, encourages a healthy liquid intake for the cool down after chew!

Rimbauld's house in Harar

Apart from relaxing, there are famous sights to see like the house of the famous French poet, Rimbaud, built in 1908 and now a museum. Ras Mekonnen’s palace, the traditional Harar House is another place to see.

As well as the historical sights, the whitewashed walls and intricate city streets and passages are intriguing. The woven crafts decorated with gaudy silver threads and beads would be a worthy gift for the collector of all things bling!

The city is also famous for its Hyena Man. Arrangements can be made to witness the incredible feeding by hand of these large, strong, scavengers at night time, truly and fascinatingly scary.

top of page